De La Tacos (DE LA タコス)

As part of list of the best Mexican and tacos in Sapporo, we present DE LA タコス in Sapporo. From my first time walking through the doors, taking in the smell of cumin spice in the air, De La Tacos in Sapporo was instantly one of my best experiences with tacos in Japan.

Like much of Sapporo, De La Tacos has the funky “Dosanko” feel, this time mixed with elements of the local skateboard and hip-hop scenes. Above the taco restaurant, there is a gallery where local graffiti artist shows are held (more on that below). That is how we first heard about De La Tacos; from local graffiti artist Maaji One’s online posts.

De La Tacos is on a quiet alley, about a five minute walk to the east of the Tokyu department store (near Sapporo Station), near Bus Center Mae, to the east of Sōseigawa park. As you arrive, you are greeted by the bright-blue store frontage, and the advertisement of their skateshop. Inside, that blend of hip-hop, skate culture, and Mexican cuisine continues with a small selection of boards, shoes and clothing, a set of turn-tables, crates of records, an Indy Trucks rug, toy VX1000 video cameras, Beastie Boy’s VHS cassettes and more.

Unlike a lot of Sapporo that trying to look “American,” De La Tacos is solidly a part of the cultures they represent, and it shows; everything feels “real.” It’s a great scene, right from the start.

And the food… whoa.

When you step up to the counter, you’re presented with a short menu, with at least three kinds of tacos, and usually a few specials. The kitchen is a one-woman show, and the tacos are made to order. Also behind the counter are at least two kinds of beer, and some sodas.

Even if I hadn’t first heard the name in association with a hip-hop party, I would have known the origin of the “de la” in De La Tacos.

De La Soul is a hip-hop group from the 90s, from the era when Tribe Called Quest (and maybe Digable Planets?) was equally popular, and the “positive” vibe of crews like De La Soul had you “three feet high and rising.”

As you sit on one of the few stools inside the shop, and lean into the counter to eat some tacos, there is an original remake of the “Three Feet High and Rising” album cover to complete the reference. It’s hand painted, and very well done. And the quality of the work shows that the artistic cred for the shop extends beyond can control.

It is surprising (to me), but true, that Sapporo does a good job with tacos. If you want a good burrito in this town, you will be disappointed, but as for tacos – De La Tacos is a great example that Sapporo can help you scratch that taco itch in a very satisfying way. I like the food there so much, I have been back several times and even doing this write-up is creating the craving.

She does a carnitas taco. I think I have had the “chili con carne” tacos (a special menu item) at least twice (and they are delicious (in one of my notes, I say the beans are almost crunchy). But it is the beef tacos that really sing for me. It’s a stewed beef of some kind (not ground beef, which could be good too, and may even be on the menu???). These are excellent little tacos; with the salsa and pickled jalapenos already added.

Amazing every time.

As I said, there are no burritos. And the absence of a good burrito spot in Sapporo is sad truth this city will surely one day out grow. However, in addition to tacos, you can get the “taco rice,” which is not Mexican, but “Japanican” food; the taco-inspired rice bowl that originated in Okinawa, but is somewhat ubiquitous in Japan.

There are no tables, but there is that small counter where you can sit and eat (I have, several times), and… usually soak up some good music. On the times I have been there, my friends and I were usually the only ones in the shop. Once, at lunch, there were two or three to-go orders happening as we ate, and stood around talked after our meal. I am embarrassed to say I have never been to one of their graffiti shows, but I am hoping to make that happen soon.

There is always music playing at Sapporo’s De La タコス. There is a video monitor above the kitchen, usually with a video of dj playing a live set, usually hip hop (of course). On my first time in the shop, Wu Tang’s “Killer Bees!” was coming through the speakers.

On at least two occasions, there was also a DJ in other room (in the skateshop), flipping records on the turntables – one time just listening to the beats on his headphones, another time djing a set of roots reggae cover songs, mixed with soul, and dropping into something had a Puerto Rican-like carribean sound.

I have never seen any local Sapporo skaters at the shop, but I’m sure they must get some of that traffic. There is a huge stack of spent boards inside. And a pile of cutting from left-over griptape; there must be some new set-ups coming out of their skateshop. There are two or three well-worn completes leaning against the wall in the taco shop.

There is a long tradition of hip hop connected to skating and skate videos. While punk, and metal are also classic parts of the skate scene, the merger of hip hop and skating goes back to the origins of both scenes, to at least the mid-1980s. De La Soul is from NYC. Graffiti, writing, and “bombing” is another NYC specialty. But with the addition of tacos, I can’t help but get a LA vibe as well.

It’s not really about America. And it’s not about Mexico, either. The scene at De La Tacos isn’t particularly Japanese… it’s all of those things, at once.

As I said, De La Tacos was listed on the fliers that are passed around (online) for the Lost in Graffiti show that they host in this same location. Our Japanese isn’t great, but the flier says “2F,” and there is an small upstairs area in the De La Tacos building.

You can’t see it anymore, but there was a new, original Maaji One piece on the side of the building for our first couple of trips. They have since built a new building next to the shop that hides this artwork, but you can see more of Maaji One’s skulls and other artwork online and on walls around Sapporo.

For more tacos in Sapporo, check out Sapporo’s El Tope (which is much more in a “Mexican” tradition, but very Sapporo-cool in it’s own way). And for “California” style Mexican, Spatacos in Maruyama is less authentic, but delicious, and worth the trip.